Quebec City - the 'cradle of New France' and a UNESCO World Heritage site -  is the most charming city in North America.
This is thanks to a centuries-old city wall that encircles a thicket of  spires and a web of cobblestoned streets, charming bistros and horse-drawn  calèches and a grand copper-roofed hotel that overlooks an historic river.
The walled Upper Town sits atop strategic Cap Diamant, overlooking the spot  where the St Lawrence River narrows. Those narrows - known as the kebec to the  original Algonquin inhabitants - gave the city its name.
At the foot of Cap Diamant lies Lower Town, where Samuel de Champlain  founded the city in 1608. Today, visitors strolling around the restored Place  Royale can easily imagine they're back in the 1600s.
Although nearly all of the city's present residents are of French descent,  nearly a third are bilingual, offering a friendly, warm welcome to visitors in  English, as well as in French. Their joie de vivre is infectious and never more  so than during the summer festivals, when the whole town seems to be one  continuous stage.
The Quebec City Museum Card is valid for three days and gives free entry to  10 museums and attractions, reduced entry at many other venues (including the  Parc Aquarium du Québec), discounts at some shops, and free bus transportation  within the city. It can be purchased at participating museums, tourist  information centres and some hotels.
Fortifications de Québec (Quebec Fortifications)
One of the city's most unique features is the 4.6km (2.9-mile) rampart  encircling the Old Town, making it the only walled city in North America. It is  possible to walk along the top of the fortifications, which offer sweeping views  of the city and the St Lawrence River. Near the Citadel, at Porte St-Louis (one  of the four surviving city gates) is the Centre d'interprétation des  Fortifications-de-Québec, which includes displays on the city's history and a  restored powder magazine. Continuing clockwise, the walls adjoin the Parc de  l'Artillerie (Artillery Park), which was built by the French to defend the city  from attack, before becoming the garrison for British officers until 1871, when  it was turned into a munitions factory. Further along, cannons are ranged along  the wall, overlooking the St Lawrence River and the opposite shore.
La Citadelle de Québec (Quebec Citadel)
The Citadel, dating from 1820, is one of Quebec City's most distinctive  features and a legacy of the British occupation. On the heights of Cap Diamant,  the star-shaped fortress was built to withstand a repeat attack on the city from  across the Plains of Abraham to the southwest. Today, visitors can do a one-hour  guided tour of the site (included in the admission fee), which includes the  powder magazine and a former prison that now houses a small museum. Separate,  free tours of the Governor General's residence are also available. In the  summer, the daily 'Changing of the Guard' takes place at 1000, with the  Regimental Band and the Citadel's mascot ('Batisse', the regimental goat)  joining the garrison personnel. The pomp continues on selected evenings, when  the Royal 22nd Regiment performs The Retreat as part of the flag-lowering  ceremonies.
Musée de l'Amérique Française (Museum of French America)
The Museum of French America occupies part of the vast Séminaire de Québec.  The museum details the history of the seminary and showcases part of its diverse  collection of artworks and religious and scientific objects. Summer concerts  take place in the former chapel. For American visitors, the highlight is the  exhibition on the dispersal of their ancestors from New France throughout the  USA.
Musée de la Civilisation (Museum of Civilisation)
One of the city's strongest museums, the Museum of Civilisation, in Lower  Town, hosts excellent temporary shows in addition to its three permanent  exhibitions. One of these focuses on life in the province of Quebec throughout  the centuries of European inhabitation, with displays of artefacts, photos and  recreations of historic and domestic scenes. Another is a tribute to the First  Nations peoples who live in the province, with videotaped oral histories, birch  bark canoes, teepees and many smaller artefacts. The third, produced in  collaboration with the National Film Board of Canada, looks at Quebecers'  relationship with the land.
Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec (Quebec National Museum of Fine  Arts)
The most important collection of paintings and sculpture by Québécois  artists is held by the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec. A selection of  works are displayed related to three main periods - the beginnings of Québécois  art (largely influenced by religion), the European-influenced modernist period  up to 1945, and the period of figurative and abstract art from the mid-20th  century onward. These are supplemented by travelling shows and permanent  exhibitions that focus on the art of Quebec City, abstract painter and sculptor  Jean-Paul Riopelle, and other topics, as well as the Brousseau collection of  Inuit art. The museum's site at the southwest end of the Plains of Abraham is  dotted with sculptures.
Observatoire de la Capitale (Capital Observatory)
The best view of the city is from the Capital Observatory, 31 floors above  the Hôtel du Parlement. Information panels give a good recap of Quebec City's  history, linking events to the buildings spread out below. From here, the plan  of the defensive fortifications stands out, as does the layout of the  Citadel.
Parc Aquarium du Québec
Visitors can see walruses, seals, polar bears and other animals from  northern maritime regions in an open-air environment, as well as tropical fish  and other delicate creatures indoors. The aquarium is divided into seven  sectors, focusing on regions such as the banks of the St Lawrence and the North  Pacific.
Parc des Champs-de-Bataille Nationaux (National Battlefields Park)
Southwest of the Citadel, the National Battlefields Park occupies the  108-hectare (267-acre) Plains of Abraham. It was the site of the decisive battle  of 1759, which saw the British, under General Wolfe, defeat General Montcalm's  French forces. Today, it is a wide green space popular for summer concerts and  strolls. For those with a taste for history, the Discovery Pavilion (in the same  building as the tourist office) has a large diorama of the site and the Odyssey  historical multimedia exhibition. Midway through the park, Martello Tower No 1  has costumed guides who explain the role of these defensive structures (summer  only). Abraham's Bus connects the sites, with the driver providing commentary as  it winds through the park daily from late June until mid-September.
Vieux-Québec: Basse-Ville (Old Quebec's Lower Town)
The oldest part of Old Quebec, Lower Town, is clustered on the narrow  streets between the ramparts of Upper Town and the Old Port, linked to Upper  Town by the funicular, the escalier casse-cou (breakneck stairs) and the steep  Côte de la Montagne. At its centre, Place Royale has been faithfully restored to  its former glory, the 17th- and 18th-century houses surrounding the one-time  market square now in pristine condition. The Centre d'interprétation de  Place-Royale displays period artefacts and has panels that illustrate the area's  history. The historic Maison Chevalier recreates domestic scenes in the 17th  century. One block over, the rue du Petit Champlain is a lively and romantic  cobblestone street full of shops and restaurants.
Vieux-Québec: Haute-Ville (Old Quebec's Upper Town)
The Old Town's Haute-Ville (Upper Town), where the towering Château  Frontenac is located, is one of Quebec City's major draws. This hotel was built  in 1893, although the tower that gives it its distinctive appearance was added  in the 1920s. Tours are available (www.tourschateau.ca). It sits between Place  d'Armes (a central square with the narrow lanes leading off it filled with  street artists and an artist's market) and the Dufferin Terrace (a wide wooden  boardwalk offering a terrific view of Lévis, on the opposite shore). The  Dufferin Terrace is filled with street entertainers and visitors milling around  or promenading past the cannons and kiosks that predate the Château Frontenac.  Nearby, the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville is dominated by the Basilique-Cathédrale  Notre-Dame-de-Québec, the city's main Catholic cathedral.