Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Visit Holland’s most charming and underrated city, take a break on the Cornish coast or explore Spain’s Picos de Europa

Take me there: Utrecht


Why go?

On 4 July the eyes of the world will focus on the Dutch city of Utrecht as it hosts the Grand Départ of the Tour de France. For a cycle-mad nation this is cause for celebration, but it’s also a chance to show off one of their most charming and underrated cities. With its handsome medieval centre, gabled merchants’ houses, café-lined canals and cosmopolitan student population, Utrecht offers a laid-back and compact alternative to Amsterdam.

What to do

This is Holland, so a cycle tour is virtually obligatory. There are dozens of rental places in town, but if you’ve been inspired by the Tour de France you can cycle the first or second stages on a vintage racer with Vintage Bike Tours (vintagebiketours.nl). They also offer gentle city tours on classic Dutch bikes. Alternatively, get a duck’s-eye view of the city by renting a kayak (kanoverhuurutrecht.nl). Utrecht’s canals are surprisingly peaceful and the chances of getting mown down by a motor-cruiser are pleasantly slim. Design aficionados should check out the Rietveld Schröder House, the modernist house built by Gerrit Rietveld, a luminary of the De Stijl movement in the 1920s. The excellent Centraal Museum has his furniture on display and can organise guided tours of the house (centraalmuseum.nl).

Where to eat

Blauw is the best place in Utrecht for Indonesian food. Order the “rijsttafel” (literally, rice table) for a tasting menu of a dozen or so small dishes for €30 per head (restaurantblauw.nl).

Where to stay

All rooms in the 18th century canal-side house The Mary K were designed by local artists and the welcome is warm (from €120, marykhotel.com).

Insider tip

The Dutch love a coffee-shop and Hayo van Dijk of Vintage Bike Tours says his favourite is Blackbird Coffee & Vintage (Oudegracht 222 , blackbirdcoffee.nl): “The couple who run the place are lovely, the coffee is great and their [juice] bar is awesome. Alongside the coffee they also sell vintage bikes. It’s a nice, tranquil place which you could easily pass, but should definitely visit.”

Give me a break



Summer’s hottest address: Chapel House, Penzance.
Home A quirky bolthole on the Cornish coast Cornwall has no shortage of gorgeous boltholes, but there’s always room for one more. Chapel House has just opened in Penzance in the building that used to house the quirky Penzance Arts Club. There are six airy rooms with sea views. With the option of kitchen suppers on weekend evenings and foraging excursions it looks set to become summer’s hottest address. B&B from £150 (chapelhousepz.co.uk).


On a high: cycling in Spain’s Picos de Europa National Park.
Away Active holidays in Spain Pura Aventura is inviting adventurous families to Spain’s Picos de Europa National Park this summer to enjoy a week’s activity holiday, with canoeing, canyoning, swimming, hiking and cycling. Combining guided excursions with independent activities, the trip departs on 23 July. From £750pp, including a week’s B&B in small, family-run hotels, car hire and guided trips. Flights extra (pura-aventura.com).

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