Wednesday, February 20, 2019

You Should Go To India's Kerala Region And This Is Where You Should Stay

It's not the India people think of when they conjure up images of the country. Instead of colorful frenzy, packed streets, tuk-tuks jockeying for a place in traffic, Kerala, in the country's southwest,  is serene, tropical, dotted with backwater canals. And it's especially tranquil bordering Lake Vembanad near the village of Kumarakom on the grounds of the CGH Earth property Coconut Lagoon. Recently reopened and restored after the damage caused by historic floods in Kerala last August, this  resort blends history, nature and just enough ayurvedic practices to be health inducing but not too austere.








The view of Lake Vembanad and the 150 year old restored tharavad houses.
The rooms are in 150 year old traditional tharavad houses,  local wood structures that were once threatened with destruction when residents elsewhere in the region planned to tear them down to build more modern ones from concrete or else were falling into disrepair.  Composed of beautiful teak and rosewood, they were taken apart, moved here, restored and reassembled, giving the resort the look of a handsome village in an earlier century. Sitting on the terrace of one of the heritage mansions in which duplex suites are housed, watching the  kettuvallams, the thatched roof rice boats now used for cruising, glide by is an appealing, gentle start to the day.

Coconut Lagoon has its own kettuvallam for guests to cruise through the quiet canals past fishermen and waving residents sitting on the banks while a panoply of multicolored birds from the adjacent bird sanctuary flutters alongside. So much revolves around the water  that there are also motorized canoes and a larger launch for sunset cruises and to ferry guests back to the resort's jetty—the resort is reachable only by boat which adds to the sense of tranquility and seclusion.




 For those who want to venture to the shore, there are bicycles to explore nearby villages to learn about local culture but there's plenty of opportunity to experience it without leaving the grounds.  A woman from the next village comes over every day at 4 to serve chai (tea)  and snacks from her canoe. In the restaurants, the culinary offerings are rich and varied, from the a la carte menu to the buffet in the main restaurant Ettukettu and the seafood restaurant Aymanam featuring local dishes such as the local lake fish karimeem, marinated, wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled and konju vattichathu, tiger prawns baked in a clay pot. Even for fans of Indian food at home, the dishes on the buffet table will be discoveries, somewhat on the spicy side but absolutely delicious. And on most nights before dinner, another cultural aspect of the region is on view: dancers and musicians including performances of a particularly expressive dance known as OttanThullal.

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